Culinary Types

Devouring The New York Times – August 30, 2006: Florence Fabricant wraps up a frank discussion of the return of pigs-in-a-blanket as the chic new appetizer in this week’s “Dining In” section.

For those of us born in suburban U.S.A., pigs-in-a-blanket is our ethnic food, and fabulous Flo champions the little wiener in Tiny Come-Ons, Plain and Fancy: The Kings of the Cocktail Hour Once Again.

I have fond memories of the summer of ‘79 when I worked as a waiter at a local country club, snarfing handfuls of the little quilted darlings before I ever left the kitchen to pass the silver platter. The dry cleaners could never quite get the grease stain out of my polyester uniform jacket pocket, where I stowed the illicit goods.

Now, nearly three decades later, this little piggy is popping up all over town, from Wall Street to Lincoln Center. It may be wrapped in puff pastry and dusted with poppy seeds, or disguised as chorizo cloaked in phyllo, but there’s no mistaking the news – from wedding receptions to memorial services, the best guilty pleasure on the planet has gone legitimate. And, as one seasoned cocktail party pro notes, the pastry is “a good blotter for alcohol!" I say, “To oink, or not to oink? There is no question!” Culinary Types Rating: Hallelujah!!!

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved