Culinary Types: Cebiche

Friday, January 09, 2009

Peruvian Fare in Fog City

We all have our hazy moments, and our moments of intense clarity.

I have often wondered why – beyond the weather -- San Francisco has been dubbed “Fog City.” Perhaps the heyday of Haight-Ashby had something to do with it. Yet every time I visit, there is that moment of intense clarity. The city sits in sharp relief against the skyline. The brilliant clang of the cable car is heard. The locally-grown produce is beautifully vibrant. It’s like stepping into one of those Mary Poppins Technicolor chalk pavement pictures.

Then, there’s the food. It is one of those bracing winter evenings and we are finally off-duty for the day. My companions are the delightful and ever-resilient Miss Tera and the always regal Dairy Queen. I am certain that our affable host in Fog City, Papa Bear, has a Zagat data chip imbedded in his brain. He has referred us to the restaurant La Mar at Pier 1.5 on the Embarcadero. It promises “Peruvian ingredients, Peruvian flavors, Peruvian traditions from our times.” Not to mention, that kind of transcendental moment of clarity, only to be found in Fog City.

Let’s start with what might quaintly be referred to as “the appetizer” – cebiches (pictured above). It is the national dish of Peru, made with fresh fish and shellfish and marinated briefly in “leche de tigre” or lime juice and peppers. (My friend Buenos Aires Gus has – in the past - reminded me in no uncertain terms that I have screwed up the spelling of this delicacy. However, I am completely accurate with this spelling, because Diary Queen charmed our waiter and scored a copy of the menu.)

We sample four. As DQ puts it, “People! We’re researching. We need a little of everything.” Cebiche Mixto is Mahi Mahi, calamari, octopus and habanero pepper marinated with cilantro, red onion, Peruvian corn and yam. Cebiche Chifa is Baja California Yellowtail with peanuts, scallions, pickled carrots and daikon, flavored with habanero pepper, cilantro and sesame. Cebiche Nikei is Ahi Tuna, avocado, Japanese cucumber and tamarind. Cebiche Classico is California Halibut and red onions with Peruvian corn and yam. The fish is exquisitely tender and the seasonings sharp, biting and crisp. A mere hint of habanero can bring stinging tears to the eyes.

For their main courses, Miss Tera and DQ choose Cordero – roasted scallops in a clam and mint broth with tiny potatoes and sweet peas and corn risotto. The risotto is luscious – tiny pearls infused with subtle flavors of the garden and the sea.

I select Lomo Saltado, traditional Peruvian style stir-fry of sautéed beef tenderloin, onions, tomatoes, cilantro, soy sauce, and garlic, with fried potatoes and rice. More clarity. Your basic meat and potatoes never tasted like this.

We sample several desserts, but the standout favorite is crisp pumpkin fritters accompanied with a smoky fig sauce of dark, tempting viscosity. Our waiter describes it as street food in Peru, while Miss Tera declares it “eyes rolling-in-the-back-of-your-head good.”