Broken Pie Crust

Devouring the New York Times – Wednesday, November 15, 2006: I was already hungry for this week’s “Dining In” section when I arrived at the newsstand at daybreak. The annual “Thanksgiving Edition” comes but once a year. I’d heard the radio promotions on WQXR announcing Melissa Clark’s feature on “the perfect pie crust.” It was going to be a tasty commute.

I was so wrong!

Certainly, Clark’s quest to prepare the flakiest Thanksgiving pie crust in Heaven or on Earth is admirable, and as a long time student of the pastry arts, I do believe the debate over lard versus butter as the critical ingredient has merit. Clark’s language and imagery are striking. There is also some sinfully good, mouth-watering photography and enticing recipes for pie filling like Pear-Pomegranate Pie, Honey Apple Pie with Thyme, and Nutmeg-Maple Cream Pie.

But, before you ever get to Clark’s solution of a combination of 70 percent butter and 30 percent animal fat for the flakiest pie crust in history, you are likely to go on a sudden diet.

Clark violates one of the most important tenants of food writing. The prose should taste good. Don’t make the reader lose his appetite!

It’s Thanksgiving, Melissa! It’s supposed to be about abundance, family, flavor and good taste! Do we really need the horrific descriptions of rendering lard, the endless barnyard analogies and the graphic references to a pig’s anatomy? After Clark’s lead in, I’m ready to take a pass on dessert.

Pastry is the ultimate sweet treat – the decadent escape. Some things are better left unstated. I’ll stick to Harold McGee for the science of food. But, if I want to dream of the perfect pie crust, I’m heading straight for Martha Stewart. At least she understands what visions of sugarplums are all about.

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

A Minimalist Approach to Bread:

Devouring the New York Times - Wednesday, November 8, 2006: Mark Bittman's piece "The Secret of Great Bread: Let Time Do the Work" immediately caught my eye, perhaps because of my recent immersion in the bread kitchen. Bittman reports on a "no-knead" approach to bread baking, perfected by Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery. Bittman suggests that the method is perhaps "the greatest thing since sliced bread," and something an 8-year old could master. Quite an endorsement.

The secret -- time and moisture. The very wet dough rests for nearly 18 hours and requires no kneading, but Bittman maintains the technique results in a perfect crisp crust and excellent crumb structure. From a scientific perspective, it makes sense -- moisture, more than kneading activates yeast, according to my instructors. And while we're all pressed for time, there is some appeal to starting a dough before bedtime, and finishing it off for dinner the next night.

As always "The Minimalist" offers easy to follow, step-by-step instructions and photos. It looks worth a try, especially if kitchen experiments appeal to you, and you're looking for a weekend culinary project. Check out the details in the "Dining In" section or at the New York Times online.

And, if visions of Turkey Day are already dancing in your head, you'll give thanks for the annual array of sumptuous side dishes and turkey options that are showing up in this week's edition.

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Oh Joy!

Devouring The New York Times - Wednesday, November 1, 2006: If you're considering a purchase of the spanking new edition of "Joy of Cooking" check out Kim Severson's comparision of this latest volume against the 1975 and 1997 versions in this week's "Dining In" section. In what is labeled "The Cookbook Issue," Severson does a thorough analysis of the various incarnations of "Joy" and offers her impressions of the value of the nostalgia, kitsch and homespun advice presented in this "all new" edition. In true consumer reporter style, Severson provides a detailed guide to what's in and out in the 75th anniversary edition.

Severson is clearly a most practical cook and appears unimpressed by some of the homey "back to basics" restored to this edition, like the use of Campbell's Cream of Mushroom Soup as an ingredient, or the classic recipe for "Shrimp Wiggle." I'll admit I have a distinct fondness for nostalgic recipes and suburban comfort food, so I'm immediately intrigued. But, she does acknowledge that different types of chefs will be attracted to different editions and each has something unique to offer.

Enhancing this 21st century snapshot of the Bible of home cooking, there's a plethora of side dishes on other treasured kitchen classes as well as a retrospective of the Rombauer family who created the original "Joy" way back in 1931. Grab it from the newstand or find it online. This week's "Dining In" is a must-have guide for cookbook addicts.

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Devouring the New York Times – Wednesday, August 23, 2006: Writer Julia Moskin serves up a sensual seaside feast with “A Passion for Mussels” in this week’s “Dining Out” edition. Moskin travels to the remote island in western France called Ile de Re, where gleaming black mussels are the signature summer dish. She chronicles a ritual similar to the New England clambake where fat, sweet mussels are arranged in a pattern of concentric circles on the beach and surrounded by pine needles or grape vines that are ignited. Shortly after, the smoky muscles are served on crusty bread with butter. It’s all so earthy, provocative and so French. The photo of mussels roasting on an open fire is salacious, and Moskin’s prose will have you aching to slurp a bit of their briny, plump flesh. As an added bonus, the section is packed with the flavors of summer, and you’ll find tempting recipes for a Cubano sandwich, Butterscotch Peaches and Asian Seafood Risotto. It is an absolutely yummy summer treat. Culinary Types Rating – Savory Dish.

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Devouring the New York Times - Tacos

Wednesday, July 26, 2006: The Dining In/Out Section is back this week and once again bursting with flavor as the excellent "Minimalist" Mark Bittman deconstructs a classic summer bite in, "The Taco Joint in Your Kitchen." Using straightforward, descriptive prose, Bittman conjures up images of a cantina on a steamy summer night and provides a tasty combo of taco lore and practical instruction for creating a truly authentic (e.g. not 'fast food') version of the dish at home. The beautiful step-by-step color photos will get your mouth watering, even if it's breakfast time, and Bittman provides simple recipes for each component that will allow the home chef to assemble a fiesta of fresh flavors. Bittman even clears up the mystery of the real difference between a taco, a burrito, a tostada and an enchilada. Clip this one for future reference. Culinary Types Rating: Savory Dish.

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Devouring the New York Times - July 19, 2006: Today's "Dining In" Section has little to do with dining in at all, and more to do with "shopping outside." "Greenmarket at 30, Searching for Itself" by Kim Severson is the solid type of urban reporting that is far better suited to the Metropolitan section of the "paper of record." Severson examines whether the New York City Greenmarket system at 30 is facing a bit of an identity crisis, and whether ten new markets that opened this summer in the outer boroughs can survive. It's a particularly harsh question, when you consider that the official summer season is technically only four weeks old. Much is made of the importance of providing fresh, locally grown produce to neighborhoods in Harlem and the Bronx, which one city official actually describes as "food deserts." At the same time, there is much hand-wringing over whether lower income families will actually purchase high-priced produce such as heirloom tomatoes.

The problem with the story is that very few solutions are suggested. Yes, making fresh fruits and vegetables available to more people in the city is important, but most of the experts in the story seem to be scratching their heads about how to get people to buy. There's a brief reference to a novel food stamp program that is being tested at some locations, but otherwise, the reporter provides very little insight into what might be done to make these fledgling greenmarkets succeed. Clearly, creative approaches to nutrition education and food preparation training would help attract shoppers, but these themes are not addressed. And why are vendors like Harvest Time and Renaissance Markets succeeding in smaller neighborhoods? It's not made clear.

"Greenmarket at 30, Searching for Itself" raises some important issues but is searching for a theme. It's not a health story, and it's not a food story. And, as far as food section cover stories go ... Rating: Unappetizing

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Devouring The New York Times: My name is T.W. Barritt and I’m an addict. I’m addicted to the Dining In/Out section of The New York Times. It’s the reason I get out of bed every Wednesday morning (with first run episodes of “Lost” a close second).

I crave the enormous high-calorie, above-the-fold color photo, which tempts the taste buds before I have a clue as to what the lead story is all about. I fixate on Florence Fabricant’s “Food Stuff,” drink up Eric Asimov’s wine recommendations and meditate on Mark Bittman’s minimalist approach to food. It’s a craving that must be satisfied and quite candidly, when I’m on the road, the online edition just won’t do, forcing me to scour hotel lobbies and airport newsstands for the real thing.

Perhaps I need dietary therapy. The restaurant reviews are often out of my price range and the recipes are extremely complicated and time consuming. Last summer I successfully recreated a sinfully luscious, peppery Gingersnap Ice Cream, but the preparation probably consumed about four hours of a summer Sunday afternoon. A trip to Ben and Jerry’s would have been far more convenient.

What is it about this Bible of food trends that has me fantasizing over Green Gazpacho or Stilton-Tomato Pizza before I’ve even poured my morning orange juice? From time to time, I’ll attempt to deconstruct this fascination with a review of the Dining In/Out lead story of the day. A rating of Savory Dish means the story provided information that’s flavorful, satisfying and practical to apply as part of an ongoing love affair with food. A rating of Empty Calories means the story may look and taste great but fails to stick to the ribs.

Today’s cover story pairs high-end restaurant critic Frank Bruni with bargain hunter Peter Meehan to give Michelin and Zagat a run for their money in, “Let’s Hear It For The Lounge Act.” Bruni, who has recently attempted to shed any reputation for food snobbery with a wild trek across America consuming massive amounts of burgers and fries, takes another stab at the common man to let those of us on a budget know that four-star restaurants are indeed within reach if we are willing to dine in the less-expensive lounge area included in many top restaurants. It’s not the bar and it’s not the dining room, but the savvy diner who frequents the lounge can get a spectacular meal at far more affordable prices.

Bruni nicely captures the relaxed atmosphere of the new lounge dining trend and makes a case that visiting the lounge is the perfect way to test-run some of the most aspirational dining experiences in Manhattan. His partner in crime, Peter Meehan of “$25 and Under” fame provides detailed factual information for the cash-conscious gourmet with descriptive menu items, décor and pricing for the lounge menus at some of New York’s top dining establishments including Del Posto, Perry St. and Daniel. Both gentlemen make the point that the lounge menu is often a better value than the more traditional chefs tasting menu.

“Let’s Hear It For The Lounge Act” is a practical handbook for anyone looking to try out the best of New York’s top dining establishments. I plan to head out and start sampling, because I expect the wait for lounge seats will increase dramatically in the next few days! Culinary Types Rating: Savory Dish

© 2006 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved