Sunday, January 19, 2014

A Feast of Long Island Food Entrepreneurs

Ingenious local food products are not confined to the borough of Brooklyn. All it takes is a great idea and a little hunger for success. All over Long Island, local entrepreneurs can be found at the markets selling signature food products they dared to dream up and make a reality. Here’s a roundup of several entrepreneurs and their delectable products I’ve profiled for Edible Long Island.  Follow the link in each summary to the full story:   
  
Duck Island Bread Company

Robert Biancavilla of Eaton’s Neck lives the life of a culinary superhero – a crusading district attorney by day and artisan bread baker by night.  Beginning in January 2014, his company Duck Island Bread Company offers a “bake to order” service available through the website.  

Bobby Tomatoes


When he lost his job on Wall Street Bob Scala of Deer Park saw a business opportunity with the hugely popular fresh tomato spread he served at family gatherings and Bobby Tomatoes was born.

South Shore Pretzel Company

John Gallagher of Rockville Center was unimpressed with the state of soft pretzels – so he decided to roll his own.  He created the South Shore Pretzel Company to sell his version of chewy, hand-rolled soft pretzels made in the German style. 

Pickle Me Pete

Former accountant Pete Starr of Plainview knew how to run the numbers, and now heads up Pickle Me Pete, a thriving artisan pickle business, selling bold, spicy pickles and fried pickles at local markets and online.  

©2014 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved


Sunday, January 12, 2014

A Bundle of Smoky Bacon

I’m still debating my favorite holiday gift of the season just past. Was it the Blue-ray disc of the Doctor Who Fiftieth Anniversary special, or the membership in Zingerman’s Bacon of the Month Club sent by my pal, Zany in Chicago?

With all due respect to the good Doctor (who has saved Earth’s bacon hundreds of times over), when it comes to indulgence and sheer crave factor, the Bacon of the Month Club has a lot going for it.

Membership has its privileges. The first delivery comes with a tempting slab of bacon, and a collector’s manual containing a slew of bacon lore to pig out on. 
First up in the cavalcade of bacon is Nueske’s Applewood Smoked Bacon.   Made by Tanya Nueske in Wittenberg, Wisconsin, Nueske’s is wet cured for 24 hours in a brine mixture with sugar and spices and then smoked over Applewood for 24 hours.   It’s described as “meaty, pleasantly sweet and smoky. Bacon artisan Tanya Nueske says her grandfather started selling the bacon in 1933 and today she continues the craft of smoking. The bacon is smoked very slowly so that the flavor really permeates the cut of meat. 

As the Nueske’s Applewood Smoked Bacon is a Christmas gift, I decided to incorporated it into my Christmas Day dinner menu, preparing Bacon Wrapped Potatoes. 
The recipe from Everyday Food can be found here. I wrap petite Yukon Gold Potatoes each in a ribbon of Nueske’s bacon, and bake in a 400F degree oven for 50 minutes.  The Nueske's handles beautifully. Ah, the slick feel, the marbling, and the luscious layers of delectable bacon fat!   
During the baking time, insanity nearly sets in as the intoxicating sweet aroma of smoked bacon fills the house.  The sound of "sizzle" and "pop" repeatedly draws me back to the oven to peer in.   
It is a miracle that I actually manage to refrain from sampling before Christmas dinner is served.  
Hot from the oven, the Bacon Wrapped Potatoes are kind of like glistening little Christmas gifts! 

I know the tradition is “visions of sugarplums,” but as I gleefully anticipate the next Zingerman's Bacon Club delivery, there are visions of bacon strips dancing through my head! 

©2014 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Monday, December 30, 2013

2013 – A Year of Culinary Types

Another year of culinary adventures draws to a close. Among the characters and plots to grace our little stage were entrepreneurs, food adventurers, a new magazine, the seasonal rhythms of a farm, and a heaping spoonful of sugar. And, it seemed that I was constantly in a jam.

We met food entrepreneurs who are turning their culinary visions into reality. Nick Trastelis brought us his luscious Kalypso Greek Yogurt, inspired by his homeland.
Nick Trastelis and His Extraordinary Kalypso Greek Yogurt in Terra Cotta Pots
Paul Crosby saw potential in the elderberries that grew on his property, and created Crosby’s Elderberry Vinegar. Still ahead is Crosby’s Vermont Acorn Vinegar, made from a local staple, the White Oak acorn.
Paul Crosby Creates Craft Vinegar Products from Elderberries and Acorns
Mike Selberg turned degrees in chemistry and biology into a spirited career as Master Distiller at the Cannon Beach Distillery in Oregon.
Mike Selberg of Cannon Beach Distillery
I became a contributor for Edible Long Island, a new magazine that chronicles the food culture of Nassau and Suffolk County. 
Edible Long Island Tells the Story of Food in Nassau and Suffolk County

Traumatized by the near demise of the Twinkie, I set out to recreate the iconic snack cake in my own kitchen, and expanded my repertoire to include Hostess Cupcakes and Drakes Cakes.  
The Artisanal Twinkie
Food trucks continued to be my restaurant of choice – ranging from the terror-inducing Toast Monster, to Portland, Oregon’s comforting Grilled Cheese Grill that offers fine dining in a converted double decker bus. 
The Toast Monster Mac and Cheese Sandwich
Grilled Cheese Like Mom Used to Make
I learned the art of home preserving at Restoration Farm, and quickly became a canning fanatic, holding regular jam sessions in my kitchen. 
Caroline Fanning of Restoration Farm Teaches Home Preserving
Homemade Jam from Fresh Picked North Fork Blueberries
We followed the seasonal rhythms of the land at Restoration Farm, from the slumber of winter to the beauty of spring to the bounty of autumn.  
Spring Blossoms at Restoration Farm
And, then there were the food adventurers who by their sheer pluck, determination, and insatiable appetites, expose me to some of the finer experiences in life.

My road warrior colleague Splint McCullough made his triumphant return clucking it up at Price’s Chicken Coop in Charlotte, North Carolina.
Price's Chicken Coop - A Charlotte Institution
Dining with Splint McCullough at Price's Chicken Coop

My college roommate Ford McKenzie joined me on the food truck circuit, adding his own unique interpretation, pairing street food with exquisite attire and fine hotel dining.
Ford McKenzie Dressed for Street Food Success
And, my BFF Amanda joined the ranks of Culinary Types luminaries.  Whether it’s a business trip, a baking class, a lunch break or a vodka-infused latke marathon, the Amazing Amanda reminds me how important it is to laugh and that – first and foremost – food should be fun.  
My BFF Amanda
Good advice as we conclude 2013 and begin a fresh start.
Wishing You a Bright 2014!
Happy New Year, and delicious discoveries to all for 2014! We’ll visit again in mid-January. 


©2013 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved

Sunday, December 22, 2013

Naughty, Nice and a Wicked Manhattan

Back in the day, whenever the winter holidays rolled around, my college roommate Ford McKenzie, our respective others and I would typically celebrate the season with a trip to Jacqueline’s for champagne. It was the kind of swanky Manhattan Upper East Side locale that made you feel like celebrating simply by crossing the threshold. The proprietress, Jacqueline, was a gallic Auntie Mame-type who kept the conversation flowing and the flutes full of bubbly, whether we could afford it or not. Naughty.

Jacqueline’s is long since gone, but we’ve never stopped reminiscing about the place. In fact, we’ve probably been in search of an ultimate Christmas hangout ever since. This year, Ford serves up a solution – a visit to the cocktail lounge Two E at the Pierre Hotel on Fifth Avenue facing Central Park. A check of the website suggests that it does seem to offer that elusive blend of Old World charm, uptown sophistication and holiday bling that we’ve been seeking for years. Nice.

I enter the lobby of Two E at the prescribed meeting time, and take in the sparkling, 15-foot Christmas tree that seems to have sprouted at the center of the lounge. There’s a nice selection of cushy seating, and jazzy Christmas tunes fill the room.  
Ford is attired in his holiday best – a trim, Thom Browne winter navy suit with chalk pinstripe, custom white shirt by Maxwell's of Hong Kong, antique gold Tiffany watch, and a skinny Charvet necktie accented with a 1960s gold Mad Men-style tie clip. It is hard to tell which is more merry and bright -- Ford, or the holiday tree?   He bemoans the fact that he has gained a few pounds this autumn eating too many “fat food truck lunches.”  What? Did you miss those adventures?  I did too. Somebody’s been sneaking out for food truck grub on his own. Naughty.

We’re joined by our friend RosemaryLesley Gore lookalike, professional de-clutterer, scourge of useless kitchen appliances and fashion forward trendsetter.  She’s swathed in black wool, adorned with a single silver brooch, and wears a furry black chapeau that is a cross between a Jackie Kennedy pillbox and a Russian Cossack hat. Nice.     

Now for an important disclaimer:  we did not … repeat … NOT bring a food truck picnic into the Pierre Hotel. What kind of slobs do you take us for? 

Two E is well appointed for the holidays, with a massive ginger bread house on the bar that is bigger than most Manhattan studio apartments and appears to be move-in ready.  
We scan the signature cocktail menu. Rosemary has had a tough week, and choses “Love at First Sight,” a mix of Bulldog Gin, St. Germain, Slim-line Simple Syrup, Lemon Juice, Sliced Strawberries and Brut Champagne. 

Ford’s peruses the menu and his eye goes directly to “Wicked Manhattan” a noveau culinary cocktail of Patron Angejo Tequilla, Crème de Casis, Kendal Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay, Peychauds Bitters and Chartreause.  It’s hardly traditional, but Ford is intrigued and heads to the bar to get more information from Paul the bartender who is happy to oblige. Paul also offers a no-fault guarantee. If Ford doesn’t like the drink, he can exchange it for a traditional Manhattan. Nice.

While Paul does not exactly fit the part of an over-the-top female French bon vivant, he is friendly and informative and mixes up that Wicked Manhattan with quite the holiday flair. 

Ford succumbs to the temptation. The Wicked Manhattan is a bit fruitier than it’s predecessor, but he likes the floral scent, and wonders for a moment if he should just inhale the lush aroma. In the end, he wickedly imbibes two. Naughty.
After several rounds of Wicked Manhattans, and champagne cocktails, we decide that a snack is in order. Ford declines, given his diet and all. Rosemary and I each order a serving of three Angus Beef Sliders with a side of horseradish sauce. Ford proceeds to help himself to a slider from each of our plates. Very Naughty. 

As we leave the Pierre Hotel and gaze across to Central Park, the moon on the breast of the new fallen snow, gives a luster of midday to objects below.  The glare from Ford’s Mad Men tie clip and Rosemary’s brooch is blinding, but festive nonetheless. 

Epilogue and Shameless Foreshadowing

Hours later, I arrive home, and there is a cardboard box waiting on the doorstep emblazoned with a graphic illustration of a slightly crazed pig.   

It’s an early holiday gift from Zany, Luigi and Sticky Hands in Chicago.  How exciting is this??
They’ve sent me a membership in the Bacon of the Month Club!! Naughty and Nice! 

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas!

©2013 T.W. Barritt All Rights Reserved