Colonial Carrot Cake, a New York Tavern and a Future President

The phrase “Let them eat cake” may have fanned the flames of the French Revolution, but according to legend, a slice of carrot cake served to war hero George Washington in New York City in the year 1783 marked the close of the turbulent years of the American Revolution.

The location was Fraunces Tavern - on Pearl Street in Lower Manhattan – and the occasion was a lavish reception for the future American President, French Ambassador Luzerne, and more than 100 generals, officers and civilians. The distinguished guests had gathered at the tavern - then known as “The Queen’s Head” – to mark the evacuation of British troops from New York City on November 25, 1783. Several days later, Washington would say farewell to his officers at the newly-renamed Fraunces Tavern.

American Patriot Samuel Fraunces was renowned for his excellent taste and culinary abilities and his tavern was a center for fine dining in colonial New York. The Thirteen Colonies Cookbook from the Montclair Historical Society (1975) reproduces the menu from that 1783 banquet which included Fresh Sorrel Soup with Sippets, Roasted Lamb with Oyster Forcemeat, Tipsy Squire and Carrot Tea Cake. For a time, Fraunces served as steward for President George Washington.

America’s Best Lost Recipes (2007) from the Editors of Cooks Country Magazine includes a recipe for “Real Carrot Cake” in the spirit of that early American celebration – a fitting indulgence to celebrate President’s Day 2010. The recipe is said to be similar to colonial spiced oil cakes, and the cake is brushed with dry vermouth and topped with a buttermilk rum glaze.

Real Carrot Cake - Adapted from “America’s Best Lost Recipes” 2007

Ingredients:
3 cups, plus 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup walnuts, chopped
1 cup raisins
5 large eggs, room temperature
1 ¾ cups granulated sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
1 pound carrots, peels and grated in a food processor

½ cup dry vermouth
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons buttermilk
1 teaspoon dark rum

Place the oven rack in the middle position, and preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Grease and flour a 12 cup Bundt pan. Using a whisk, combine three cups flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and salt in a medium bowl. Toss the walnuts, raisins and 2 teaspoons flour in small bowl and coat well.

Using electric mixer on medium high, beat eggs and granulated sugar until combined. Reduce speed to medium and slowly add oil until incorporated. Increase speed to high and beat until light and creamy. Using rubber spatula, stir in flour mixture, walnuts and raisins, and carrots until combined. Scrape batter into cake pan and level. Bake 60 minutes. Test for doneness with toothpick. Remove from oven and cool in pan for 30 minutes. Turn out of pan to cool completely, at least one hour.

When cake is cool, brush the vermouth over the cake until it is absorbed. Wisk the confectioners’ sugar, buttermilk and rum in a medium bowl and drizzle over cake.

You can dine at the restored Fraunces Tavern in New York and visit the “Long Room” where George Washington bid farewell to his officers. There was no carrot cake served, but numerous toasts were offered on behalf of the 44 war officers in the room. They had been away from their families and homes for seven years. General Washington was quoted as saying:

“With a heart full of love and gratitude, I now take leave of you. I most devoutly wish that your latter days may be as prosperous and happy as your former ones have been glorious and honorable.”

For more on Carrot Cake, check out the tasty information provided by Louise at Months of Edible Celebrations!

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